Monday, December 23, 2013
Out Of The Office
It's vacation time here at Slagheap Cycles. The shop will be closed to the public from December 23rd until January 23rd. We will still be available by phone and email if you are interested in scheduling work with us once the shop re-opens. Look forward to some motorcycle-related photos from our various travels soon :)
Sunday, December 15, 2013
Monday, November 4, 2013
Winter Motorcycle Storage
I rode my motorcycle out to Udipi Cafe today for lunch (great dosas!), and nearly lost some fingers to the cold. Unfortunately, it's getting to be that time of year when the bikes have to get put away. On that note, we are offering very affordable motorcycle storage and winterization. Here are the rates:
MOTORCYCLE STORAGE: $30/month
MOTORCYCLE STORAGE: $30/month
- Bike will be stored indoors and tarped to protect from dust/dirt
- Electrical outlets for battery tender (we can provide a tender for $5/month)
- Bike can be removed and re-stored at anytime, given reasonable notice, no extra charge
- We will pro-rate your charge if you are ready to ride mid-month
- Powerwash motorcycle to prep for storage
- Fill gas tank and fuel system with stabilized gasoline, drain carburetors
- Fog engine cylinders with oil
- Remove battery and check condition
- Lift bike weight off tires and onto blocks
- Spray metal parts with rust prevention spray
- Spray plastic and vinyl with preservative spray
- Cover motorcycle with breathable cover
- Powerwash motorcycle
- Replace engine oil and change oil filter
- Fully charge and reinstall battery
- Clean & gap spark plugs
- Inflate and check tire pressure
- Lubricate and check drivechain
- Refill fuel system
Sunday, October 6, 2013
Yamaha Valve Shim Replacement Tips
Here are some tips on changing valve shims on a 1990 Yamaha Radian. Enjoy!
Step 1 is removing the valve cover (lots of bolts!) and turning the engine to the correct position to measure the clearance of each shim. Remember to take the spark plugs out to make your life easier, and that only certain valves can be measured in each TDC position. The clearance is .11-.15mm for intake and .16-.20mm for exhaust valves. If any valve is out of clearance, you have to remove the existing shim and measure it, then order the appropriate replacement to get the clearance correct. The really useful tip that we learned in this process (that we will share with you here) is that you have to rotate the gap in the valve lifter...otherwise, it is almost impossible to get the shim out.
Here is a picture of the valve we want to remove the shim from. Notice, the gap in the lifter (outer ring) is far to the left, underneath the cam...that means trouble, since we are trying to take the shim out to the right side. The lifter will have to be rotated before the shim can be removed.
Now we have rotated the lifter gap to the right side - ou can see it in the front right. This will make it easy to get our tweezers in to grab that pesky shim. The important thing to know is that you have to do all this BEFORE you insert your shim tool, as once the tool is in, you can't move the lifter. Also, it has to be done with NO CAM PRESSURE on the lifter...the position of the cam lobe in the above pictures is perfect for having a gap between cam and lifter, but still the cam out of the way enough to get a tool on the lifter to rotate it around. So yeah, just put cam like that!
Okay, now our fancy shim tool is in, we have our super fancy tweezers from wallyworld, and that shim is coming right out... Again, notice the position of the cam lobe in all these pictures - in our experience, this was the ideal position for enough clearance for the lifter and the ability to actually reach the shim easily.
Voila! shim is out, ready for the number on it to be deciphered, compared to the chart in the Yamaha manual, and a proper replacement shim ordered. Contrary to reports, we had no problem with removing all the shims, waiting for the new ones to arrive, and then installing those into the shim-less valve lifters. In other words, you don't need to reinstall the old shims and do one at a time. That would be too painful!
Step 1 is removing the valve cover (lots of bolts!) and turning the engine to the correct position to measure the clearance of each shim. Remember to take the spark plugs out to make your life easier, and that only certain valves can be measured in each TDC position. The clearance is .11-.15mm for intake and .16-.20mm for exhaust valves. If any valve is out of clearance, you have to remove the existing shim and measure it, then order the appropriate replacement to get the clearance correct. The really useful tip that we learned in this process (that we will share with you here) is that you have to rotate the gap in the valve lifter...otherwise, it is almost impossible to get the shim out.
Here is a picture of the valve we want to remove the shim from. Notice, the gap in the lifter (outer ring) is far to the left, underneath the cam...that means trouble, since we are trying to take the shim out to the right side. The lifter will have to be rotated before the shim can be removed.
Now we have rotated the lifter gap to the right side - ou can see it in the front right. This will make it easy to get our tweezers in to grab that pesky shim. The important thing to know is that you have to do all this BEFORE you insert your shim tool, as once the tool is in, you can't move the lifter. Also, it has to be done with NO CAM PRESSURE on the lifter...the position of the cam lobe in the above pictures is perfect for having a gap between cam and lifter, but still the cam out of the way enough to get a tool on the lifter to rotate it around. So yeah, just put cam like that!
Voila! shim is out, ready for the number on it to be deciphered, compared to the chart in the Yamaha manual, and a proper replacement shim ordered. Contrary to reports, we had no problem with removing all the shims, waiting for the new ones to arrive, and then installing those into the shim-less valve lifters. In other words, you don't need to reinstall the old shims and do one at a time. That would be too painful!
Wednesday, July 10, 2013
Recent Bikes At The Shop
Wednesday, May 15, 2013
Carb Cleaning Surprises
We've cleaned lots of old, gunky carburetors over the years, but cleaning the carbs on a Honda CB350 yielded some extra surprises!
First was the inside of the float chamber...looking pretty bad!
But the bottom of the float bowl was much, much worse! What are those chunks?
But with a lot of carb cleaner, gasoline and elbow grease, we were able to get it all cleaned out. We replaced the float bowl gaskets and put it all back together. But upon filling it with gas, we noticed a leak! At first we thought it was a stuck float needle, then ruled that out and suspected a bad seal or a crack in the overflow tube, but further inspection showed that the gas was actually coming out of a really strange place...
See if you can spot it in this photo:
Wait for it....Bam! The gunk in the bottom of the float bowl had actually eaten a pinhole through the aluminum float bowl. In the picture above you can look closely and see a small black dot. After further digging around, we enlarged it to the size below:
We don't have the ability to do aluminum welding at the moment, so soldering was attempted but didn't hold. Luckily, there was a replacement float bowl on hand and so we swapped them out. After that, the bike was actually running great! The bike ended up being probably the strongest-running old Honda twin we've had come through the shop!
First was the inside of the float chamber...looking pretty bad!
But the bottom of the float bowl was much, much worse! What are those chunks?
But with a lot of carb cleaner, gasoline and elbow grease, we were able to get it all cleaned out. We replaced the float bowl gaskets and put it all back together. But upon filling it with gas, we noticed a leak! At first we thought it was a stuck float needle, then ruled that out and suspected a bad seal or a crack in the overflow tube, but further inspection showed that the gas was actually coming out of a really strange place...
See if you can spot it in this photo:
Wait for it....Bam! The gunk in the bottom of the float bowl had actually eaten a pinhole through the aluminum float bowl. In the picture above you can look closely and see a small black dot. After further digging around, we enlarged it to the size below:
We don't have the ability to do aluminum welding at the moment, so soldering was attempted but didn't hold. Luckily, there was a replacement float bowl on hand and so we swapped them out. After that, the bike was actually running great! The bike ended up being probably the strongest-running old Honda twin we've had come through the shop!
Tuesday, April 30, 2013
Bad Timing
Customer was worried that the engine of this DR100 needed a complete top-end rebuild. Started taking it apart and noticed that the cam wasn't quite lined up with the crankshaft... took the chain off and lined them up, put it back together and !voila! it runs like a champ :)
Thursday, April 18, 2013
Open Case
Locating the source of an elusive shifting problem on a Honda CB360...also a good chance to clean out 30+ year old oil filters while we're at it!
Saturday, April 13, 2013
First Customer Bike At Our Shop In Millvale
Been doing a lot of mobile repairs as folks get ready for the riding season, but here is the first customer bike to enter our shop in Millvale - and it's a pretty one, too! A 1970 Honda CB175.
Friday, March 1, 2013
Our New Shop Space (Temporary) - Red Star Ironworks in Millvale, PA
HOUSTON, WE HAVE LANDED....
The good fellas over at Red Star Ironworks in Millvale have agreed to give Slagheap Cycles some temporary shop space while we continue the search for some more permanent digs. They are embarking on an ambitious project there to create a kind of "Industrial Work & Art Collaborative" in their former ammunition factory, and have graciously allowed us to be a small part of that. We now share space with some ornamental ironworkers, welders, painters, propulsion prototyping, and men's underwear manufacturing. Seriously!
So, we are now doing repairs and maintenance in Millvale, by appointment. Call or email to schedule time with us.
here's where we're at --> 2 Sedgwick Street, Millvale, PA 15209
(our entrance is in the back, on Black Street - look for the cows)
We are also still doing mobile repairs, so let us know if yr ride is so broke we need to come to you!
.
HOUSTON, WE HAVE LANDED....
The good fellas over at Red Star Ironworks in Millvale have agreed to give Slagheap Cycles some temporary shop space while we continue the search for some more permanent digs. They are embarking on an ambitious project there to create a kind of "Industrial Work & Art Collaborative" in their former ammunition factory, and have graciously allowed us to be a small part of that. We now share space with some ornamental ironworkers, welders, painters, propulsion prototyping, and men's underwear manufacturing. Seriously!
So, we are now doing repairs and maintenance in Millvale, by appointment. Call or email to schedule time with us.
here's where we're at --> 2 Sedgwick Street, Millvale, PA 15209
(our entrance is in the back, on Black Street - look for the cows)
We are also still doing mobile repairs, so let us know if yr ride is so broke we need to come to you!
.
Friday, January 11, 2013
Shop Opening In Spring 2013 - We Hope To See You Then!
We are doing mobile repairs over the winter, so get in touch if you need to get your bike ready for riding season - we can do tune-ups and general maintenance at your location. Call to make an appointment. Thanks!
Slagheap Cycles
412.294.8666
slagheapcycles@gmail.com
We are doing mobile repairs over the winter, so get in touch if you need to get your bike ready for riding season - we can do tune-ups and general maintenance at your location. Call to make an appointment. Thanks!
Slagheap Cycles
412.294.8666
slagheapcycles@gmail.com
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